Sunday, March 30, 2014

The DK jumper, #2, V 1175


Isn't this a fun shape? I really like the hem at this length without the balloon effect., at least for now. If that continues I will just hem the dress and lining separately and leave it long. 

I decided on the pivot and slide which I think will work out the best for my shape. I added to the underarm and center seams this way for an additional 1 1/4 inch of width to the bust. I tried the slash and spread method, the remnants of which you can see on the muslin. It pulled things all awry and made big gapes as well. I think it just didn't work for my particular shape but I thought it would as it did for others. Pivot and slide it was! 

At this point I have the bodice pieces all on. Let me tell you, this pattern IS ALL about the marking! I used a legend and colored threads to mark things properly. 

It is really necessary. For the pleats I used a wax marker, the kind that disappears nicely when you iron. I drew in the direction of the pleats as well. That was VERY handy. I also made sure I laid the pattern out  for cutting exactly as shown in the directions. On my recent draped back tee, I ended up with a fine top but it was "backwards" from the directions in the pattern. With such odd looking pieces and such critical marking I just didn't want anything to vary from the pattern. So far it has all gone together really well.

I will say it has been bulky. I am using a light to midweight linen. And yes, it does look like denim. But it has that bit of linen glow which I love, and of course the wrinkles. This pattern has way too  many layers of fabric in places to make out of a denim and really needs a lightweight fabric.


At this point the fit looks pretty good and as I see this design unfold I think it will be flattering. The back hugs my narrowest part and that's always a good thing. 

Let's see if I can make it through the next steps, Wowsa!...Bunny




18 comments:

  1. Looks pretty complicated. And I might add, it is evident that you have it under control,

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  2. Wow, that DOES look complicated! I look forward to seeing the completed dress.

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  3. Looks like a geometry problem Bunny, but you can can certainly manage it! Looking forward to seeing another of your lovely creations!

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  4. This is certainly a challenge, and one you will master :)

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  5. Can you elaborate on the wax marker that you used? Brand? I have a pattern I'd love to make up, but the pleats are making me sweat. Thank you!

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    1. I have a bunch that I picked up years ago in a bucket at a little fabric store in NH. No brand, just pick your color. They look like little slabs and are shiny. There are similar markers out of chalk. They look exactly the same. Mark a dark fabric and iron and see if it disappears. The chalk types don't disappear and need a lot of rubbing to come off, if they do. The wax disappear perfectly. HTHs.

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    2. Something like http://www.albertzoll.com/product_info.php?products_id=2181&osCsid=08fb0eddba0fb56ef6e210e4f86ff161. Lots of this out there, in square and triangular shapes.

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    3. That's it! Thanks for the research, SJ!

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  6. Just want to say that if you follow the directions this goes together perfectly. I have had no problems. It is beautifully drafted and rather genius.

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  7. Looking good with the added fabric! Nothing like using colored thread markers for not losing your place and tearing your hair out!!! ha ha The directions look a little scary but you have this tiger tamed for sure...love the fabric choices too...you go girl!

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  8. And it has pockets. Pleats, gathers, sideways insertions AND pockets. What is the expression: "you have it all going on" ? In this dress, you do.

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  9. It's coming together very nicely, Bunny. I am amazed at all the pieces. It's like a puzzle. lol

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  10. I have had this pattern in my drawer since it first came out and I knew I would need a FBA and kept putting it off even though I really wanted to make it, so I am thrilled you have figured it all out. If it wouldn't be too much trouble, I was wondering if you would post pictures of the original pattern piece you adjusted for the FBA and then the one where I can see exactly where you drew the lines for the pivot and slide and how you added to the underarm. I want to be able to wear it without a t-shirt under it if I can. Did you re-draft the skirt? It is really pretty, I think I like it better without the frill. Looking at the pattern pieces I am confused how you got it to that shape with the pattern pieces in the envelope. Did you stabilize all the bias seams with tape before sewing? Now my last question, you mention the layers and the bulk they create. I have a piece of Liberty print (lawn) I have wanted to use for a summer dress for a long time and I would underline it with batiste, do you think it would have enough body?
    Thank you for all the great info you post, I can't tell you the number of times I refer to your site. I love heirloom sewing for children (I have 4 wee grandsons that I wouldn't change for the world but it would be so much fun to have a granddaughter). I was allowed to make their Christening gowns and will be making them white linen shirts for a picture this summer, but I also love seeing what you do for your grandkids. I have no friends that share my passion for sewing (my Mom passed away a number of years ago and she was the only one who loved it as much as me), so it is wonderful to have this site where there is so much talent and creativity. Thank you for all your expertise and time.

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    1. Thank you for your kind words. I will take this one step at a time. I will try to post the pics of the pattern pieces in my next post, probably this upcoming weekend. The only adjustments I have done to this pattern at all so far are to do a pivot and slide on the bodice fronts and bodice backs to add in a bit over an additional inch. I use Nancy Zieman's method which has you trace the original piece and then start with the pivoting and sliding. Her books on fit are great so you may want to check one out from the library before you start. They make a great addition to your sewing library.

      I have done nothing so far to alter the depth of the neckline. This is very low cut and more than likely will show your bra band if left as is. Because I am going to only wear this as a jumper I've made no adjustment there.

      The skirt is going in exactly as the pattern requires, no alterations. The lining is eventually attached and is much shorter than the dress so it pulls up the hem with a balloon effect. In my pic that is not done yet and I really like the length and the way it is falling. We will see what happens when the very pleated front goes on.

      Bias seams have been stabilized with selvedge from the lining fabric, a static free poly.

      This dress would be lovely in a lawn or voile. A word about the lining. It is simpler and doesn't have all the pleating and such going on. It just hangs from the bodice pieces. it shouldn't add bulk to the skirt area.

      Hope this all helps and thank you for commenting and visiting. Greatly appreciated.

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  11. The pattern is a testimony to your advance planning. I can't wait to see the finished garment. You put so much thought into whatever you make. It's starting to rub off on me :) I am actually using the rayon seam binding that was in my grandmother's sewing basket.

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    1. I love that stuff! I wish they sold it in all sorts of colors at fabric stores like they used to. When they changed to that stiff poly crappo that was the end for me!

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  12. Donna Karan patterns are always an amazing lesson in design, aren't they? This is going to look fabulous when it's all done.

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